BRC - Out of the Steam - 1945 [Final Race Results]

[EnryGT5]

I'm entering a sub 100hp featherweight with a styling so minimal it looks like it's still in war

[GenJeFT]

My car depends on loading.

Every time I load my car up it seems to either lose a couple kg or gain a couple of kg. Sometimes its 0.1494... and other times its 0.1501.

The calculations seem to have a margin of error causing a random variation in hp/kg ratio of up to .001 every time you load it. Seriously a change of .5kg will throw you're hp/kg rating off and that .5kg can change every time you load the car.

Edit*

I just loaded it 3 times and the weight changed from 776.8 to 779.6 and the price went up from xx88 to xx97.

[Der Bayer]

I can assure you that such minor deviations won't get you disqualified and that the differences won't suddenly turn your car into a backmarker.

[GenJeFT]

The rules say that an engine reliability of 30 is "recommended" but will being less then that lead to a DQ?

I ask because I made some changes to my car and I gained another second on my lap time from before but it required a sacrifice of 3 points on engine reliability in the engine tab. But overall my cars reliability in the trim tab showing the cars stats barely took hit and still exceeds 60.

The car you have from me is good on that front but depending on that recommended thing and my cars performance on Monday I might send you this slightly modified one.

[Der Bayer]

With an engine reliability of 30 you are highly likely (but never safe!) to finish the 30 minute races without an engine failure. It's up to you how much you want to risk. Higher reliability is always better of course. Reliability is not somthing which will get you disqualified.

The car reliability is good for crashes: The higher your reliability is, the less damage (on average) your car will take in crashes.

[TheBobWiley]

Little problem here, my car got locked up on the brake tab, i can't move from there, i can only choose front brake type, the rest is locked...

Yep, same problem here. Unable to enter the race with the small body 40's car, entered the big boat of a car version.

[TheBobWiley]

So uninstalled/reinstalled the game again and removed the mid engined 40's again. Now I have full access to the front engined small body 40's!
Time to rebuild my car from scratch, unlikely I will have it ready for Monday's test so the big car will be running that, but I should have the small car ready for the main event (unless there is one last test this week before the race weekend).

[TheBobWiley]

Thats funny, just realized that adding mufflers changes the weight distribution to the front of the car, not the rear.... Really needed those few pounds to help move the distribution back a bit. O well :\

[Der Bayer]

Another Pre-Season test run is currently in the making! The video of it will be released tomorrow.

A little info about the entries: So far we have 34 cars. Some of them are not built according to the rules, so if you find yourself in the list, please check your cars again (or protest if you think they are built correctly!):

Currently disqualyfied (I stopped checking the car as soon as I found one mistake, so you should of course check all of the rules again!):

• UMGaming: Tyre quality
• GenJeFT: Power/Weight
• Lothoren: Power/Weight
• Absurdist: Power/Weight
• dazzazoo: Power/Weight

[Absurdist]

I realized mine was out after I sent it, figured the difference on mine isn't much so I'd let that version run in testing anyway.

[Lothoren]

Hmmm time to check mine over


Ok i have edited mine, and submitting shortly.

[TheBobWiley]

Just a heads up to Der Bayer. Every time I load the game up my cars show with incorrect weights and prices, all I have to do is change tabs and then go back to the testing tab and the correct numbers all show up until the next time I restart the game. Just a heads up in case my next car looks like its not adhering to the rules when the game first loads up.
Almost got my small bodied car ready but I guess its too late for this test, o well. Its a good deal faster than my big heavy car I submitted so it will be interesting to see how it does during the actual races

[UMGaming]

fixed the problem =)

[Zabhawkin]

With an engine reliability of 30 you are highly likely (but never safe!) to finish the 30 minute races without an engine failure. It's up to you how much you want to risk. Higher reliability is always better of course. Reliability is not somthing which will get you disqualified.

The car reliability is good for crashes: The higher your reliability is, the less damage (on average) your car will take in crashes.

I'm gambling with a quality of only 27..... Lets see if I don't wind up sending my pistons and conrods through the hood

[TheBobWiley]

Gambling with 27.... im at 26.2 :\
I was so close to breaking 10 minutes on Green Hell, then I realized I still needed to add cooling to the car. Went from 10.00.79 to 10.02.18 :\
Suspension tuning is a fickle mistress, never know when I will suddenly stumble on 1-2 second faster times or suddenly lose 15 seconds.....