Help me make it better

[Shiriken]

I am far from a grece monkey so i was hoping some here could help me make my car better. The point of this car is to be a good family car, but looking at my stats i think its pretty bad.

Criterias
The car is a station vagon (2.71m/106,7")
Front Engine
Longitudinal RWD since there isent FWD... i think.
Engine 1750cc to 1800cc max
Less than 380 Emissions
Loudness max 30
Cost less than $8350
0 to 100km/h less than 10s
Max Weight 1500kg
5 Seater
Quality = 0


My ride so far:

Engine
Inline 4, Block = Cast iron, (81.1 bore 86.4 stroke) Head and valves = Moderen OHV 2, Head = Aluminium
Crank = cast iron, Conrods = Cast, Piston = cast
Compression = 9. 5:1, Cam Profile = 64, VVT = VVT
No Turbo
Fuel system : Injection, single point EFI, intake = performance, Fuel type = Premium 95, Fuel mixture = 13.2:1, ignition timing = 94, RPM limit = 6500
Headers = Tubular, Exhaust = singel, Muffler bypass = bypass valves, Exhaust diameter = 1,75", Catalytic converter = High flow three-way, first and second muffler is reversce flow

Trim
Gearbox = Manual, Option = singel Clutch, Ratio = 6, Top speed = 215km/h, Spacing 32, Differentials = Geard LSD
Tyers = Meduim compact road

My score
Drivability 61.1
Sportiness 30.3
Comfort 41.2
Prestige 20.1
Safety 54.7

[Tycondero]

So, how is your fuel consumption? In what year are you building this car?

Personally I would say that if you really want a family car (which is one of the most difficult segments in the car market I think) you should focus more on what you really want.

IMO a good family car is easy to drive, spacious (5 or more seats and the dog has to fit in), Comfortable, economical (purchase wise and maintenance) and especially excellent in safety. It definitely doesn't need to be a race monster. Sure it needs some power, but only enough to overtake cars on the highway.

Btw $8350 is decent enough, but it should even be possible for less I think. You might want to downscale the engine bore and up the stroke to get more power out of the engine for less fuel. Also the cam profile is very high for such a car IMO. Maybe go for around 35? You would need to adjust ignition timing and likely some compression to compensate, but for sure it will also be a more economical ride whilst keeping the power decent and letting the power increase earlier already with lower revs.

[nialloftara]

A few suggestions, single point ignition should be avoided at all costs no modern car uses less than mpfi, your max power is actually at 7200rpms, move that redline up to about 7500 and put in forged internals, a highflow cat, performance intake, and muffler bypass are not really called for on a family car, you can swap them all out for regular parts, Your car stats are actually quite good so well done on that part.

[Tycondero]

Btw fitting in a turbo might also help you out. I often go for turbos as they can both increase power and make a car more economical. Fitting in a turbo might be enough to offset the loss in HP because of the cam profile and other things.

[Shiriken]

So, how is your fuel consumption? In what year are you building this car?

Personally I would say that if you really want a family car (which is one of the most difficult segments in the car market I think) you should focus more on what you really want.

IMO a good family car is easy to drive, spacious (5 or more seats and the dog has to fit in), Comfortable, economical (purchase wise and maintenance) and especially excellent in safety. It definitely doesn't need to be a race monster. Sure it needs some power, but only enough to overtake cars on the highway.

Btw $8350 is decent enough, but it should even be possible for less I think. You might want to downscale the engine bore and up the stroke to get more power out of the engine for less fuel. Also the cam profile is very high for such a car IMO. Maybe go for around 35? You would need to adjust ignition timing and likely some compression to compensate, but for sure it will also be a more economical ride whilst keeping the power decent and letting the power increase earlier already with lower revs.

The year is 2015

I dont agree that you should have a smaller engine than a 1.8, i have a 2.0 now in real life and i would not go under 140hk as if you have a family and the car is full, its nice to have it going farward in a decent speed, even having the choise to put on a trolly/trailer to toss out your old sofa without having the car struggeling. My car now is a station wagon 2.0 with 143hk and does 0 to 100 in 9.7s

My fuel consumption is: 11.04 pr 100km witch is high, should have been down more to like 6 pr 100km

[Shiriken]

A few suggestions, single point ignition should be avoided at all costs no modern car uses less than mpfi, your max power is actually at 7200rpms, move that redline up to about 7500 and put in forged internals, a highflow cat, performance intake, and muffler bypass are not really called for on a family car, you can swap them all out for regular parts, Your car stats are actually quite good so well done on that part.

I changed singel point ignition (i dont even know whats the difference on that and the others) to direct injection, single, standard intake and i change the muffler bypass to no valve and a three way reverse, reverse.

i also changed the conrods to i beam steel as i moved up the rpm to 7500.

Compression 11. 5:1
Cam Profile 56
Fuel mix 13.5:1


My score: old score

Drivability 56.6 Drivability 61.1
Sportiness 31,5 Sportiness 30.3
Comfort 41.1 Comfort 41.2
Prestige 20.1 Prestige 20.1
Safety 54.8 Safety 54.7

Fuel 8,68l 11,04l
Ems: 379 178
Loud: 29,9 26,1

Overall my score has gone down and the cost is now $11 446
... hmmmm

[Tycondero]

A few suggestions, single point ignition should be avoided at all costs no modern car uses less than mpfi, your max power is actually at 7200rpms, move that redline up to about 7500 and put in forged internals, a highflow cat, performance intake, and muffler bypass are not really called for on a family car, you can swap them all out for regular parts, Your car stats are actually quite good so well done on that part.

I changed singel point ignition (i dont even know whats the difference on that and the others) to direct injection, single, standard intake and i change the muffler bypass to no valve and a three way reverse, reverse.

i also changed the conrods to i beam steel as i moved up the rpm to 7500.

Compression 11. 5:1
Cam Profile 56
Fuel mix 13.5:1


My score: old score

Drivability 56.6 Drivability 61.1
Sportiness 31,5 Sportiness 30.3
Comfort 41.1 Comfort 41.2
Prestige 20.1 Prestige 20.1
Safety 54.8 Safety 54.7

Fuel 8,68l 11,04l
Ems: 379 178
Loud: 29,9 26,1

Overall my score has gone down and the cost is now $11 446
... hmmmm

That is not really an improvement. Mmm. No, what I meant was reducing the bore and increasing the stroke so you retain current engine displacement. That should help. Otherwise you still have the turbo option to help you out, and that shouldn't even be so expensive.

[Shiriken]

Made a few more twitches... how do i post a piture here?



Still if anyone has a way to make it better plz tell

[USDMFTW]

You mind uploading your car so i can look at it in game?

Its in your documents folder under: my games-automation-cars
and under engines for the specific engine file

[Shiriken]

You mind uploading your car so i can look at it in game?

Its in your documents folder under: my games-automation-cars
and under engines for the specific engine file

Howw do i upload it and where do i do it? hehe

[USDMFTW]

You mind uploading your car so i can look at it in game?

Its in your documents folder under: my games-automation-cars
and under engines for the specific engine file

Howw do i upload it and where do i do it? hehe

You attach it as a file in a post under upload attachment.

[07CobaltGirl]

90% of your cost increase is going to be due to the change to Direct Injection. Stick to MPFI unless you're going for power or higher end markets. It's quite economical, and also quite cheap.